What is your idea of freedom?

Traveling 450km with a herd of 50 horses across the Icelandic Highlands might be the closest I ever got to mine. This month’s travel feature takes us on an 8-day journey through the land of fire and ice, between the ears of a courageous and spirited Icelandic horse.

We arrived at the horse farm on a bright summer day. Located two hours South of the capital Reykjavik, this second-generation family farm owns over 80 horses and spans across hundreds of acres. Our accommodation for the duration of the journey is in various traditional Icelandic shepherd huts, while we share this once-in-a-lifetime experience with a group of 15 experienced riders. At dinner, each person gets matched with three horses that will carry them throughout this journey. In this part of the world, the sun doesn’t set in summer, which makes the anticipation of the start of the adventure the following day even more exciting.

For many, riding an Icelandic horse is a new experience and a chance to discover the tölt, a natural four-beat lateral gait where at least one of the hooves always touches the ground. This comfortable gait, which our horses generously give us for long distances, makes the start of the trip remarkably smooth. Agile like mountain goats, Icelandic horses have strong and steady hooves that nestle dexterously between volcanic rocks. While they are incredibly sure footed and confident, these bomb proof mighty horses can cross rivers, climb mountains, and gallop around glaciers and volcanoes while carrying their riders effortlessly.

 As we cross shallow rivers and ride through grass fields, leaving the farm behind, we capture a glimpse of the stratovolcano Hekla, one of the largest and most active volcanoes in Iceland. Riding in its direction, the herd senses the excitement and picks up the pace. The more experienced horses lead the way- they know what awaits them: lush pastures, delicious glacier freshwater stream, and a well-earned rolling fest at the end of a long day.

On the second day, we are assigned a new horse according to our level and preference. Crossing a desert of volcanic ash and lava fields of Solvahraun, the mix of rain and dust gets in our teeth as we find ourselves smiling uncontrollably. We stop for a lunch break and unsaddle the horses, give them some hay and minerals, which are brought in by a support vehicle that meets us at specific stops throughout the day.

The following day takes us to Ljótipollur, an iconic explosion crater lake, before arriving in a geothermal oasis where riders can relax and enjoy hot springs with a cold Icelandic beer. In Landmannalaugar, horses get some hay and well-deserved rest. The next couple of days are rhythm intensive as we gallop through the black sand and green mountains of Maelifellsandur, enjoying the views of the Myrdalsjokull glacier in the background. Finally, we arrive at a picturesque shepherd’s hut overlooking Eyjafjallajökull, an impressive volcano covered by a large glacier which infamously erupted in 2010, causing massive amounts of volcanic ash in the atmosphere and forcing European skies to close for a few weeks.

The last couple of days leave us with a bittersweet taste of nostalgia as we slowly return to civilization. Encountering several concrete roads, the sound of 50 horses’ hooves striking the pavement resonate like music to our ears. Volcanic ash fields turn into pasture as we get closer to nearby towns and local farms. Nevertheless, the herd is excited to get home, and we can feel a boost in energy and pace from the horses leading up front. Our incredible adventure finishes on the 8th day with a long, sustained gallop, followed by a large river crossing before arriving back at the farm.

Traveling with a herd of 50 horses- what is that like?

While a small group of riders lead the way, the loose horses in fact, dictate the pace. Simply put, a few riders at the front ensure that no horse gets passed them or wanders off to the sides, while the riders in the back of the herd close the march, always making sure that no horse stays behind. Other riders and loose horses are spread out within the middle and follow the direction and pace of the herd.

Traveling with a herd means each rider can ride various horses throughout the day, allowing our adventure to continue at a sustained pace while giving plenty of time for horses to recover. At Hekluhestar, most of the horses are born on the farm and are part of the same herd. A few younger horses also join in on the adventure, and although they are not ridden, this experience is a great way for them to train for endurance as they learn respect, herd dynamics, and a few life lessons along the way.

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